New build

[yousillyGoose]

Case: COOLER MASTER HAF 932 Advanced RC-932-KKN5-GP Black Steel ATX Full Tower Compucase Case with USB 3.0 and Black Interior

 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119160

 

 

GPU: EVGA SuperClocked 012-P3-1572-AR GeForce GTX 570 (Fermi) 1280MB 320-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support …

 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130595

 

 

CPU:Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I72600K

 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115070

 

 

Ram: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231314

 

PSU: CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W ATX12V v2.2 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 …

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139006

 

 

SSD: Crucial RealSSD C300 CTFDDAC128MAG-1G1 2.5″ 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148348

 

MOBO: EVGA P67 SLI 130-SB-E675-KR LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813188073

 

WD Black internal for storage.

 

 

Thoughts? Any improvements that can be made (especially to the MOBO/Ram).

 

<3 you.

 

Ps- If I plan on doing a little overclocking, could you recommend an aftermarket CPU heatsink/fan?

 

<3 more.

[MasterP]

What motherboard?

[yousillyGoose]

MasterP said:

What motherboard?

 

 

Mobo added- oopsie

[MasterP]

For $200 I think you could get more motherboard from Asus.

[yousillyGoose]

Is there a particular one you’d recommend?

 

And thoughts about the rest?

[MasterP]

The rest looks fine. I don’t really like SSD but meh.

[yousillyGoose]

Don’t like SSD in general or that model?

[MasterP]

SSD in general. Any solid state drive that has to use the SATA interface is going to be bottlenecked.

[yousillyGoose]

A SSD on SATA 6.0 seems > a physical drive considering a physical drive doesn’t come close to saturating a SATA 3.0 connection. Do SSD drives really have the ability to saturate SATA 6.0??

[MasterP]

It’s not about saturating the bus so much as the controller itself. SATA controllers can easily be overwhelmed by conventional non-SSD drives, try copying some large files from 3 drives to 3 other drives simultaneously. You’ll notice that despite the rated speed, the copy operations slow to a crawl. The best bus for SSD is PCIe and it shows in the 2-5x performance increase, however the price is significantly higher. It shouldn’t be but hey that’s how these guys make their money.

[yousillyGoose]

What about the situation where you have pretty much no regular transfer of data between drives? I plan on only using the ssd for os and games while the conventional drive will be storage. This wouldn’t be slowed due to a saturated bus.

[MasterP]

In that case you’re going to hit the other big problem with SSD. Win7 will use about 15-20GB. Include another 5 for applications and programs. That leaves about 90GB for games, which is not much. My Steam folder by itself is 116GB and that doesn’t include the other 187GB of games I have installed.

 

SSDs are good for booting windows fast but that’s about it. In games, the only benefit you get will be fast load times, once the level is loaded you don’t actually get any improvement at all in games. If it were me, I’d get a fast 64GB SSD for $110-130 and then pick up a 1TB WD Black SATA2 6Gb/s for your games. If you need file storage I’d recommend the $80 2TB WD Green SATA2 3Gb/s. The WD Green is still incredibly fast for file storage and media. Its linear performance is similar to that of a WD Black.

[Derrick LeBrocq]

Good build, except for the motherboard…EVGA mobos…ew. Oh, and DON’T get ripjaws for Sandy Bridge. They’re SUPPOSED to work, but if you read up, there are multiple issues with them. The sniper series, on the other hand, is amazing.

[yousillyGoose]

Can you recommend an alternate Mobo? I want a good one (but don’t need the absolute best one).

[Derrick LeBrocq]

yousillyGoose said:

Can you recommend an alternate Mobo? I want a good one (but don’t need the absolute best one).

 

Were you planning on going crossfire/SLI?

 

OR were you planning on adding a soundcard/extra expansion card?

 

I would suggest the ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z. It’s mATX, but supports dual video cards (both SLI and Crossfire).

 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131759&Tpk=maximus%20iv%20gene

 

If you’re not into mATX, I’d suggest this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128498

 

Either way, you want z68 as opposed to p67.

 

I would also suggest, for an AIR cooler if you’re overclocking, go with something like this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106150

 

or if you want to be able to see your motherboard, grab a corsair H80.

 

You’d be crazy not to OC a 2600k. They are BUILT for that. You can get at least 4.4GHz effortlessly on every chip, no matter the batch.

[yousillyGoose]

Derrick LeBrocq said:

yousillyGoose said:

Can you recommend an alternate Mobo? I want a good one (but don’t need the absolute best one).

 

Were you planning on going crossfire/SLI?

 

OR were you planning on adding a soundcard/extra expansion card?

 

I would suggest the ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z. It’s mATX, but supports dual video cards (both SLI and Crossfire).

 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131759&Tpk=maximus%20iv%20gene

 

If you’re not into mATX, I’d suggest this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128498

 

Either way, you want z68 as opposed to p67.

 

I would also suggest, for an AIR cooler if you’re overclocking, go with something like this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106150

 

or if you want to be able to see your motherboard, grab a corsair H80.

 

You’d be crazy not to OC a 2600k. They are BUILT for that. You can get at least 4.4GHz effortlessly on every chip, no matter the batch.

 

I’m not immediately planning any additions to the build above. Maybe in the future I’d go for a pcie ssd drive. SO mATX just means smaller, yes? What would be the advantages of having smaller mobo?

[MasterP]

Typically cheaper with many of the same features as a full ATX.

[Lemm]

MasterP said:

Typically cheaper with many of the same features as a full ATX.

 

They usually don’t have as many pci slots. Right? I had one before

[MasterP]

They have a few less of everything.

[Nickname]

there is really no reason to use anything other than a full ATX board in a full-size ATX case… you really do give up too much. Even if you think you won’t need those extra pci/PCI-E slots, some day you will wish you had them.

[yousillyGoose]

Nickname said:

there is really no reason to use anything other than a full ATX board in a full-size ATX case… you really do give up too much. Even if you think you won’t need those extra pci/PCI-E slots, some day you will wish you had them.

 

I was kind of seeing it that way myself. I do plan on getting a full tower. I currently have a mid tower and my videocard is pretty crammed in there. Being that I am getting a giant case I see no reason to get a small mobo. Is that logic good?

[Derrick LeBrocq]

I would have still urged you to get the gigabyte board over the evga board:P

[MasterP]

If you’re getting a full tower you may as well geta full ATX motherboard. If you don’t it’ll just look weird.

[Lemm]

MasterP said:

If you’re getting a full tower you may as well geta full ATX motherboard. If you don’t it’ll just look weird.

 

This is very true.

[Author]

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